时尚洋布:十九世纪英国呢绒在中国的使用

“Fashioning the Foreign: Using British Woollens in Nineteenth-Century China”

报告人：苏瑞丽Rachel Silberstein, ACLS / Luce Foundation Postdoctoral Fellow,

Rhode Island School of Design, History of Art and Visual Culture,美国学者学者委员会(ACLS）博士后，罗德岛设计学院，艺术和视觉文化史部门

报告时间：2017年4月12日 周三 13:30-15:30

地点：18号楼218室

人物名片：

苏瑞丽研究中国物质文化的历史,对时尚,服装和刺绣有着浓厚的兴趣。她最近在牛津大学东方学系获得博士学位。她的博士论文《刺绣人物:19 世纪中国的服饰和商业文化》探讨了中国女装从清代中叶到晚清时期如何在手工艺商业化和戏剧服装大众化的背景下得以改造的过程。她曾在西安外国语大学从事英语教学和中文学习,在那儿,她对中国的纺织品发生了兴趣。回到英国,她在伦敦大学亚非学院中国语言与文化研究院攻读硕士学位。2007 年,又去牛津大学攻读博士学位。2012 年,她获得 Gervers 经费资助,前往加拿大皇家安大略博物馆实习,研究该馆所藏的中国民间刺绣藏品。她目前是美国学者学者委员会(ACLS) 博士后学者,隶属于罗德岛设计学院. 苏瑞丽发表的专业文章有: 《姑苏八景:风景刺绣,城市妓女和十九世纪中国女性的时尚》,《清史研究》,2015.6:《云领和袖口:晚清中国的时尚与商业刺绣,《时尚理论》,2016,《时尚人物:十九世纪中国汉族女性的服装圆领和衣边》,《服装》,2016. 她目前正在准备一本名为“刺绣的闺女绣花女士：晚清女装的时装，商业和文化”的书

报告摘要：

Contrary to the established narrative of the Qing as conservative eschewers of all things foreign, recent studies have drawn attention to the increasing presence and popularity of foreign objects from the late Ming onwards, something that gained momentum with the arrival of the East India Company in the late seventeenth-century. This paper provides a micro-history of the most critical component of the EIC trade, woollen fabrics. Oft-dismissed by economic historians, new data compilations permit unprecedented analysis of this trade, which despite numerous challenges, was to become increasingly vital, both to the EIC and British woollen manufacturers. By charting the EIC’s various attempts to market their wares and counter the competition, particularly Russian competition for the northern markets, I explore how British woollens entered Chinese society and argue for a new perspective on the nineteenth-century trade wars that acknowledges the Chinese consumer in global textile history.