报告题目：Structure and Physical Property of Cotton-Crepe Fabrics under Varied Relative Humidity

报告人： 康健 博士，京都工艺纤维大学 研究员

报告时间：3月7日（周一）上午10:00

报告地点：材纺学院17-312会议室

人物名片：康健博士本科就读于半岛平台材料与纺织学院轻化工程专业，在日本京都工艺纤维大学高科技纤维专业分别获得工学硕士和工学博士学位，2011年10月至2013年03月任京都工艺纤维大学博士后研究员。2014年3月获得日本外务省授予的高度人才（学术类）称号，并获得Best Research Paper of The Student Paper Competition (The Fiber Society Committee USA 2010.10)、Excellent Oral Presentation (The 10th Asian Textile Conference Committee 2009.09)、Best poster of 2008 Venture Laboratory project (Kyoto Institute of Technology, Venture Laboratory 2008.02)等学界荣誉。

ABSTRACT

Japanese traditional cotton crepe fabrics (chijimi) were studied to find the fundamental relationship among crepe structure, highly twisted weft yarn and effect of environmental humidity.The objective is to find the most dominant parameter to fabricate new outerwear wearing under varied relative humidity environment. Using the twist level of weft yarn varies the tensile propertyof crepefabric.First of all, the tensile load-extension curves of highly twisted yarns (1000T/m, above 2000T/m) were compared under 10–90% relative humidity (RH).The extensibility (EM) of highly twisted yarns are higher than that of low twisted one under all RH, and the difference increased at humidity levels exceeding 60% RH. Then a fabric was fabricated using yarn (2200T/m) for weft yarn. Extensibility of this fabric is 16 – 26% at 49N/m in the humidity range of 10-90%RH.Secondly, to improve both extensibility and recovery, the piqué cotton crepe fabrics, after special embossed finishing, were used to investigate the effect of piqué and crinkly structure on tensile properties under varied RH and in water at 25°C. The crepe fabrics with piqué had higher EM and residual strain values than the non-piqué samples under all RH conditions.The EM value of fabric in weft direction is equivalent to that of outer knitted fabrics.Extensibility of piqué fabric showed above 40% at high humidity but resilience was 20%. Additional pique increases the extensibility and maintains the recovery below 70%RH.The Moisture Management Tester (MMT) was used to analyze the moisture transportation in both vertical and horizontal direction of these piqué cotton crepe fabrics. Wetting time was about 2sec and wetting rate is also higher compared to the cotton plain fabric without crinkle. Finally, three pairs of pajama pants were tailored from selected piqué cotton crepe fabrics, and three long-term hospitalized patients wore the pants for 12 to 18 months. Fabric after wear-wash cycles retains the piqué shape. The EM increased and bending and shear properties decreased, thus generating additional softness.